Shellfish have long played a vital role in the Nuu-chah-nulth diet, providing an excellent source of protein and iron. As the saying goes, “When the tide is out, the table is set.” Nuu-chah-nulth communities traditionally harvest shellfish such as mussels, oysters, and clams at specific times of the year. Phyllis Halvorsen, an Uchucklesaht Tribe Elder, beach keeper, and guardian, prefers harvesting oysters during the winter months. “They are firmer in the winter. I usually stockpile them in my freezer and save them for the warmer months to eat.” This preference aligns with oyster biology, as oysters spawn during the warmer months and can lose up to 40–50% of their body weight during that time.
Today, shellfish continue to be important not only for traditional harvesting but also for local aquaculture operations. Several Nations are involved in shellfish farming along the west coast of Vancouver Island. Barkley Sound Shellfish Ltd. (BSS), for example, oversees the Toquaht Nation’s aquaculture interests and manages oyster, clam, and scallop operations. Their farmed Pacific scallops have even been sold to local restaurants throughout the region.
Whether shellfish are harvested for personal use or purchased from local farmers, markets, or restaurants, they must come from an area that is officially open for harvesting. This is an important safeguard to ensure shellfish are safe for consumption. To monitor safety, mussel samples are regularly collected from local waters and submitted to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA). Samples are tested weekly from May through October and every two weeks from November through April to detect harmful algal toxins.
Testing focuses on toxins produced by certain phytoplankton, that can cause Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP), Amnesic Shellfish Poisoning (ASP), and Diarrhetic Shellfish Poisoning (DSP). These events are commonly referred to as “Red Tides” due to a red colour that sometimes comes from these phytoplankton. The results of these tests determine whether harvesting areas remain open or must be temporarily closed. In many cases, it is the Nations or local shellfish farmers collecting and submitting these samples from their respective areas.
These monitoring programs help ensure the safe harvesting and consumption of a variety of bivalve species, including oysters, mussels, manila clams, and littleneck clams. Some species, such as butter clams and scallops, accumulate and retain toxins differently than mussels. As a result, they must be submitted to the CFIA as “target species” before a harvesting sub-area can be opened. This testing process plays a critical role in protecting all harvesters, including First Nations, commercial aquaculture operators, and recreational users.
For Phyllis, one of the best ways to enjoy oysters is cooked on the barbecue in the half shell, prepared as a variation of Oysters Rockefeller with melted cheese on top. Phyllis has lived in Ehthlateese, located in Uchucklesit Inlet, for over 40 years and continues to utilize and care for the sea resources around her. If you plan to harvest bivalves yourself, be sure to check the Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) website or download the Can U Dig It app to confirm that the area is open and the shellfish are safe to eat.
